September 29. Our team is impressive: head guide Gopal, two assistants (Keshar and Suren) and several porters are hard-working, strong, and even help me improve my [limited] Nepali. I am completely amazed by the porters who climb up and down these trails carrying multiple bags and supplies on their backs. Their loads are tied and distributed by head wraps. It’s incredible to see.

Jhopke, a cross between a cow and yak, spot the rocky trail as we pass towns and farm houses. People are friendly, quick to smile and laugh, helpful and sweet. Kids run outside to greet trekkers. The sky is a vivd blue, and clouds reveal hints of majestic peaks and gushing waterfalls. Simply, a beautiful land. The weather is comfortable during the day — perfect for trekking — but drops quickly at night. My meal of choice is traditional: dal bhat, rice with lentil soup and curried vegetables (potatoes with occasional greens). And tea. Lots of tea.

After leaving the guest house at 8AM, we tackled steep ascents, navigated suspension bridges (some with missing bolts and planks), and crossed the Dudh Kosi River to enter Sagarmatha National Park. Here in Namche Bazaar, a few members of our group are feeling the altitude. We’ll stay put for two nights to acclimatize before continuing on.

September 30. Acclimatization hike and cold day. Drinking lots of water to combat altitude-induced headache. Most other trekkers are taking Diamox, but I’ve opted against it.

Namche is more developed than I had anticipated. I’ve found it relieving to “unplug” since leaving the States but discovered an internet cafe and posted a few photos online. Bottled water, toilet paper, and Snickers are sold at 4-5x the price as in Kathmandu. I'm beginning to see the same faces on streets and in shops, those also making the journey to Base Camp or preparing for other ascents. There are climbers and visitors from all over the world.

Tomorrow we head from 11,306 to 12,670 feet.

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